One of the most common automotive issues in the world is a car that won’t start. It’s a problem faced by millions of people every single year, and the most obvious way that’s made apparent is with a car that clicks but won’t turn over.
But just because it’s common doesn’t mean it’s any less annoying, though. So, with that in mind, we pat ourselves on the back and offer you this easy-to-understand guide teaching everything you need to know about this irksome dilemma – and how to fix it correctly the first time.
What Makes the Clicking Noise?
When you turn the key and only hear clicking, it helps to know exactly what is clicking. The click you hear is the sound of the start pinion smacking into the flex plate/flywheel (automatic or manual, respectively).
It can happen with a single click, or the starter can bounce back and try and re-engage.
Single Click vs Multiple Clicks
If you only hear a single click when trying to start, the starter attempted to engage, but there simply wasn’t enough energy available to turn over the engine or even try again.
On the other hand, if the starter is constantly banging against the flex plate or flywheel, your vehicle still won’t start, but it means something different.
Causes If You Hear a Single Click
If you notice a single click when you turn the ignition and then no other noise follows, it’s safe to say the starter isn’t receiving enough power.
While that’s almost always the case, there are some different reasons this could be true.
#1. Dead battery.
The most likely reason for your car clicking once when you turn the key is a dead battery.
It has enough charge to throw the starter one time, but once the starter engages, it doesn’t have the juice to turn over the engine or to throw the starter again.
#2. A bad alternator.
This sort of goes hand-in-hand with a dead battery. The alternator charges the battery while you drive, so if it’s bad, sooner or later, you’re going to have a dead battery.
But if you simply charge or replace the battery, and you have a faulty alternator, it’s not going to take long at all for the dead battery to rear its ugly head again.
#3. Corroded or loose connections.
Sometimes, everything in your ride is working just fine, and there just isn’t a proper connection between the battery and starter.
This could be due to a loose wire or corroded connection, but either way, it’s creating a large amount of resistance, which is preventing your vehicle from starting.
#4. Failed Starter Solenoid.
A starter solenoid is an electromagnetic switch that connects the starter motor. In most cases, you will hear no clicking from the starter solenoid when it goes bad. In other cases, you may hear one click as it attempts to engage.
In either case, a bad starter solenoid will not be able to activate the starter motor to turn over the engine, even with a good battery and connections.
Causes If You Hear Multiple (Rapid) Clicks
If you’re trying to start your vehicle and you hear a whole bunch of clicking instead of a single click, then it’s a different problem. While the causes may be the same as a single click, it could also be a failed starter.
#1. Dead Battery.
Just like a single click could be a dead battery, a series of quick clicks could be a problem with the battery, too. This occurs when the battery is pushing enough voltage to engage the starter but not enough power to try and crank over the engine.
So, it’s dead, but not as dead as a doorknob, like it is if you’re only getting a single click. You may need to replace it, but it’s more likely that you’ll be able to charge the battery and keep using it.
#2. Faulty Alternator.
The alternator charges the battery. So, a faulty alternator will lead to a dead battery. Always check the alternator first before jumping straight in and changing the battery.
#3. Corroded/Loose Connections.
As loose and corroded connections can lead to a single click, they can lead to rapid clicks, too.
The starter draws power and needs the right amount to get its job done. Loose and corroded connections throttle the amount of power that makes it to the starter.
#4. Faulty Starter.
If the starter isn’t working quite right, it may engage, then not have enough power to turn the motor over. It pushes out, hits the flywheel, and goes back in.
You hold the ignition, that happens over and over, and all you hear is a ton of clicking. To make it even more difficult, a starter can also drain a battery due to parasitic draw.
What to Do (Diagnostic Steps)
Now that you’ve learned a little more about why your vehicle might not start, it’s time to narrow it down to exactly what’s going on.
With that in mind, we’ve created a step-by-step guide on how to figure out exactly why your vehicle is clicking and not starting.
#1. Check Connections.
This isn’t always the most likely source of the problem, but it’s the easiest to eliminate as a possibility. Pop the hood and inspect the terminations of the battery.
Make certain they’re tight and that there’s no corrosion. Clean those terminals and tighten the connections if needed, and retest if your vehicle starts.
#2. Test the Battery.
Once you feel satisfied that the connections are good, take a look at the battery itself. Make sure to check for cold-cranking amps and volts during this step.
If there are 12.6 or more volts but not cold-cranking amps, you can replace the battery; otherwise, move on to the next step.
#3. Charge the Battery.
However, just because the battery doesn’t have enough voltage doesn’t mean you have to change the battery.
Take if you will, if there’s not enough voltage in the battery, and I’m going to put it on a battery charger before I even think about replacing it.
#4 Re-Test the Battery.
Now, once the battery gets a full charge, I’m going to retest it. Right now, that battery should hold at least 12.6 volts and push enough cold cranking amps for my vehicle.
If it won’t pass the test in either one of those categories once I charge it, I want a new battery.
#5 Check and See if the Car Starts.
Now that I know the battery has a charge, I’m going to check and see if my vehicle will start.
If it does, I’m still not done, but I can rule out a defective starter and skip that step when I get to it at the end!
#6. Test the Alternator.
If your vehicle fired back up after charging the battery, do yourself a favor by checking the alternator. If you have a bad alternator and just skip right over this step, it’s only a matter of a couple of weeks before you have a vehicle that refuses to start again.
When you test the alternator, it should push around 14 volts; if it doesn’t, it’s bad, and you need to replace it.
#7. Check the Starter.
If you have followed these six steps in our troubleshooting guide, we’re pretty positive that the starter is the problem, but double-check before you replace any part by testing the component.
Bench test a starter by applying power to the proper terminals and then see if it has enough power with a small prybar.